论文总字数：20299字

摘 要

课题选用32s棉纱，根据不同的风格分别设计了平纹织物、斜纹织物、缎纹织物、小提花织物、透孔织物，将设计好的织物组织采用小样织机上机织造，考察了不同风格全棉织物的天然染料染色性能及其服用性能。

经过上机织造的五种织物都符合预期的风格，然后采用紫胶红、槐米、靛蓝三种天然染料对五种不同风格的全棉面料进行红、黄、蓝三原色染色。在染色过程中，采用了直接染色法、预媒法和后媒法三种不同的工艺，比较了不同工艺对不同风格面料的上染性能。通过测试上染面料上的上染色深度K/S值，判断在三原色中槐米的染色效果最为理想。

根据棉织物的结构特点对染色后的织物分别进行了服用性能测试，性能包括拉伸断裂强力、折皱回复性。通过测试不同风格织物的拉伸断裂强力和折皱回复性，比较了不同织物的强力大小和不同织物经纬向折皱回复角的大小，综合比较以后可以判断缎纹织物的服用性能是较好的，它的织物强力为634.1N,经向折皱回复角度为232°，纬向折皱回复角度为276°。

通过本课题对不同风格织物的染色性能和服用性能研究，可以判断染色性能最好的染料是槐米，服用性能最好的织物是缎纹。槐米染色时选用10g/L的槐米，3%owf的醋酸和白矾，滴入2滴左右的渗透剂进行槐米染色，最佳染色条件是40℃起染，80℃保温染色。

关键词：全棉面料 天然染料 染色性能 服用性

Abstract

32s cotton yarn was selected to design plain fabric, twill fabric, satin fabric, jacquard fabric and perforated fabric respectively according to different styles. The designed fabric structure was woven on small sample loom, and the dyeing and wearing properties of natural dyes of cotton fabric with different styles were investigated.

The five kinds of woven fabrics are all in line with the expected style, and then the natural dyes of lac red, locust rice and indigo are used to dye the cotton fabric of five different styles in red, yellow and blue. In the dyeing process, three different processes, namely direct dyeing method, pre-mordant method and post-mordant method, were used to compare the dyeing properties of fabrics with different styles by different processes. By testing the upper dyeing depth K/S value of the dyed fabric, it is judged that the staining effect of locust rice is the most ideal among the three primary colors.

The cotton fabric, the wearing properties of dyed fabric were tested by the structural characteristics of the fabric including tensile breaking strength and crease recovery. By testing different style fabric tensile breaking strength and wrinkle resilience, compared the strength of different fabric size and the size of the latitude and longitude of different fabric to the crease recovery Angle, comprehensive comparison later can judge the satin fabric performance is good, its fabric strength is 0634.1 N, warp crease recovery Angle is 232 °, latitude to the crease recovery Angle is 276 °.

Through the study on the dyeing and wearing properties of different styles of fabrics, it can be concluded that the dye with the best dyeing performance is locust rice and the fabric with the best wearing performance is satin. 10 g/L of sophora japonica and 3% acetic acid and 3% alum was choosed to dye, and then into the 2 drops of around penetrating agent in dyeing, sophora japonica optimum dyeing conditions dye is 40 ℃, 80 ℃ heat preservation dyeing.

Keywords: cotton fabric, natural dye, dyeing performance, wearability

目录

摘要 I

Abstract II

目录 III

第一章 绪论 1

1.1全棉面料 1

1.2全棉织物设计方案 1

1.2.1全棉织物设计 1

1.2.2全棉织物的组织结构选用 1

1.3天然染料 2

1.4棉织物染色 2

1.4.1棉织物染料的选择 2

1.4.2棉织物染色方法 3

1.5全棉织物织造 3

1.5.1全棉织物织机简介 3

1.6织物服用性能 4

1.6.1织物物理性能测试 4

1.6.2织物化学性能测试 4

第二章 多风格全棉面料的设计及织造 6

2.1多风格全棉面料的设计 6

2.1.1平纹织物的设计 6

2.1.2斜纹织物的设计 6

2.1.3缎纹织物的设计 6

2.1.4小提花织物的设计 7

2.1.5透孔织物的设计 7

2.2多风格全棉面料的织造 8

2.2.1织造材料及仪器 8

2.2.2织造实验内容 8

2.2.3全棉面料织物设计成品与讨论 8

2.3本章小结 9

第三章 天然染料对全棉面料的染色工艺研究 11

3.1紫胶红对全棉面料的染色工艺研究 11

3.1.1实验材料 11

3.1.2实验仪器 11

3.1.3实验内容 12

3.1.4结果与讨论 12

3.2槐米对全棉面料的染色工艺研究 13

3.2.1实验材料 13

3.2.2实验仪器 14

3.2.3实验内容 14

3.2.4结果与讨论 15

3.3靛蓝对全棉面料的染色工艺研究 15

3.3.1实验材料 15

3.3.2实验仪器 16

3.3.3实验内容 16

3.3.4结果与讨论 17

3.4本章小结 17

第四章 全棉面料的服用性能研究 19

4.1全棉面料的天然染料染色效果 19

4.1.1实验材料及实验仪器 19

4.1.2实验方法 19

4.1.3结果与讨论 19

4.2全棉面料的拉伸断裂强力测试 23

4.2.1实验材料及实验仪器 23

4.2.2实验方法 23

4.2.3结果与讨论 23

4.3全棉面料的折皱回复性测试 24

4.3.1实验材料及实验仪器 24

4.3.2实验方法 24

4.3.3结果与讨论 24

4.4本章小结 26

第五章 结论与展望 27

参考文献 28

致谢 30

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